NOTE.
Text based on the 1894/1898 editions (the update however – we can deduce from other parts of the text – reached 1892) compared and integrated with that of ca. 1872.
The editions of ca. 1872. and 1894/1898 are almost identical.
The most significant historical information from the 1872 edition, not present in the version twenty years later, has however been recovered and placed in square brackets.
– The edition which in this version is indicated as approximately 1872, corrects the information linked to the document on Google, where it says 1865. But this is not exact because in the text there is information up to 1872.
– The place names have been adapted to the present. The titles of the paragraphs have been inserted by Gallura Tour for better organization and reading.
– The paragraph “General Characters2”, which is at the end in the original edition, has been unified with the first part of the general presentation “General Characters1”.
INDEX
ROUTE 47: PORTO TORRES – CAGLIARI
[PORTO TORRES – SASSARI – ALGHERO]
SARDINIA (SARDEGNA)
The best starting point for the island is Genoa. Steamers of the Navigazione Generale Italiana leave there and Leghorn weekly, and touch at Porto Torres, Olbia [first called and cited in the text as Terranova], Cagliari, & c.; also from Civita Vecchia, Naples, Palermo, and Tunis. Time from Leghorn to Cagliari, 30 hours; from Palermo to Cagliari, 22 hours; Naples to Cagliari, 27 hours. (See Bradshaw’s Continental Guide.)
To the traveller, Sardinia is not comparable with Corsica, either for scenery or accommodation, and hardly for climate.
The roads are, as a rule, safe, except when some local circumstances give rise to brigandage.
Travellers must be prepared to rough it; and be “steeled against vermin, indifferent fare, and intempérie.” (Forester’s Rambles).
[Travellers in Sardinia must be prepared to rough it; and be “steeled against brigands,” (who are not very formidable), vermin, indifferent fare, and intempérie.”— (Forester’s Rambles).].
This intempérie, which has given the island a bad name from classical times downwards, is the malaria generated by excessive vegetation and the heat of the plains, between June and November, when the inhabitants move up the hills to avoid it.
For the remainder of the year, i.e., winter and spring, which is the proper time for strangers, the climate is healthy and delightful; but visitors must guard against great heat and dew, especially when the vigour of the body is lowered by fatigue.
Every one rides in Sardinia, on horses or oxen.
The best Sardinian horse is a spirited barb, broken to a step called portante, between an amble and a trot, going 4 to 5 miles an hour. The commoner horses are small, but hardy and fit for burdens. Their owners, who act as viandanti, or guides, are civil, but independent, and hard at making a bargain. A few light vehicles may be had. There are not more than fifty or sixty carriages in the island.
The country people are dirty, ignorant, and half savage, but hospitable; their dialect is unintelligible to strangers. Snipe and wild fowl shooting at Ozieri and Cagliari; wild boar and deer near Alà, in the hills; excellent fishing; curious antiquarian remains. [It is not in 1872 edn].
The only good road is the Strada Reale, from Porto Torres to Sassari and Cagliari, through the island, which is level and macadamized, and traversed by diligences every day. The distances are computed in chilogrammi, of 8 chil. to 5 miles English.
This road, about 140 miles long, was begun 1824, and took seven years for its completion. Half of the men employed upon it were killed by fever.
It corresponds with the old Roman road through the island and with the direction of the railway; and the telegraph which follows it is in connection with the cables at each end. If this road is quitted, a guide should certainly be taken. For detailed description of the products, natural features, & c., see pages 294 & 295. Railway open through the Island, from Porto Torres to Oristano and Cagliari; with branches to Olbia and Iglesias.
[GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS 2]
SARDINIA, or SARDEGNA, called Ichnusa or “foot shaped,” by the Greeks, is the largest island in the Mediterranean, being a little larger than Sicily, and about 165 miles long, by 70 to 80 miles broad. It is 8 miles south of Corsica, across the Strait of Bonifacio; 120 to 130 miles from Italy and Africa; 200 miles from France; 300 miles from Spain. It has a coast of about 500 miles, and is bold and hilly nearly all round, especially on the east side, with wide plains down the middle of the island, marked by volcanic traces. About two – thirds of its surface are unreclaimed land or pasture. It is divided into two provinces, three archbishoprics, and eight bishoprics.
Provinces – Population at 1871.
- Cagliari, in the South (containing the circondarii of Cagliari, Iglesias, Lanusei, Oristano.) : pop. 393,208
- Sassari, in the North (Sassari, Alghero, Nuoro, Ozieri, Tempio), pop: 243,252
Total population 636,460
In 1862, the population was 588,064. In 1889, it had increased to 785,588.
The rivers are the Tirso (ancient Thyrsas), the longest; with the Ulà [Tirso], Coghinas, Turritano, & c.
Ports. Cagliari, Alghero, Porto Torres, Maddalena, Olbia, Tortolì, & c.
Products. Good wheat; though it is not so plentiful as in old times, when Sardinia was a granary of Rome.
For sport there are wild hogs, deer, partridges, bares, and quail; with the monflon, or wild sheep, as in Corsica.
Prickly pear (cactus) in the hedges; oranges, limns, and other fruit; oak, cok, palms; most of the forests have been cut down for charcoal. Oaks run 20 to 25 feet round, with 10 inches of bark.
Tunny fsh, small sardines, and coral; but the fisheries give only a moderate return.
Tobacco, salt, and snow are royal monopolies.
Formerly i ‘ yielded a poisonous herb, of which the victim died with a grin on his face; hence the phrase, a “sardonic smile” was rich in metals, as lead, copper, iron; the last found at Monte Ferru, and still to be found in considerable abundance at certain spots. Gold has been found at Monte d’Oru; mercury, near Oristano; anthracite coal, on the south side of the Gennargentu Mountains. Some mines of zinc, lead, antimony, and salt are still worked; but they are nearly exhaustEdn. Other minerals are porphyry, basalt, alabaster, marble, jasper, sardonyx, or sardine stone (so named from this island), and agate.
Its red granite, near the Straits of Bonifacio, has been used in the buildings of Rome and Pisa.
Its geology is similar to that of Corsica.
A lofty ridge runs down the east side of the island, chiefly of a granitic character.
It comprises:
1st. The Limbara group on the north of the island, of granite, 3,990 feet high at Punta Balistreri.
2nd. The Barbagia, or Gennargentu Mountains, in the middle; 6,000 feet,
3nd. These end in the Sette Fratelli, near Cape Carbonara, of granite, 2,310 feet high.
On the north-west are the Nurra Mountains, granite and limestone; 2,000 feet high at Monte Argentaro, and 1,500 feet in Asinara Island. Down the west coast are Monte Ferru, 2,736 feet; and Mont’Arcuentu, 2,316 feet, the latter composed of basalt layers. In the south-west, near Cape Spartivento, are Monte Linas and Monte Severa, 3,000 to 4,000 feet high; granite and limestone.
Between the ridges on both sides are wide plains, strewed with lava beds and extinct craters; in the neighbourhood of which red ashes are still to be found. Lava beds are seen at Castel Sardu, Codrongianus, Ales, Milis, Monastir, & c.; and masses of trachyte, basalt, and other igneous rocks are strewn about. Lussurgiu, Cuglieri, Ploaghe, and other places stand on old craters. The Nurri, in the south-west, are two hills, called Pizze Ogheddu and Pizze Ogumanu [sic], both volcanic; from which lava has flowed over the limestone of the plains of Giara and Serri, which stand 1,600 feet above the sea, and are covered with oak, cork, and other timber, and serve as good pasture.
The wide open plains in the interior, which are traversed by the high road, are 50 to 60 miles long. A large one is Campidano; a smaller, campo. Upon these cattle are pastured, and wheat grown; but houses are rare, as the shepherds live away in villages round the edge. A thick shrubbery, or maccia (called makis in Corsica), of myrtles, cistus, lentiscus, heath, &c., prevails everywhere. Here and there are groups of the nuraghi or mounds, like truncated cones, 80 to 60 feet high, 100 to 300 feet round, containing two chambers, one over the other, as described under SASSARI
They all lie north-west and south-east, and at the south-east corner is a large head-stone, shaped like a solid Gothic window, 10 to 15 feet high, with a square hole at the bottom. Two rows of stones run out from each side of this head-stone.
Some traces of the worship of Moloch, the Phonician divinity, are observed in the custom of children being made to pass through fire. In the island are many monolithic stones, shaped like a rolling pin, 6 to 18 feet high, and called perda (pietra) fitta and perda lunga. The latter is a large stone, with two small ones. Usually, not more than three stones are found together. These correspond with the menhirs found in most parts of the old world.
The remains of an extensive dolmen and kistvaen, called “Sepolture de los Gigantes,” or Tombs of the Giants (meaning heroes), near Borore and Macomer, consist of uncemented stones placed together, inclosing a hollow space, 15 to 30 feet long, 3 to 6 feet wide, and about the same depth, with a large flat stone for a cover. They all lie north-west and south-east, and at the south-east corner is a large head-stone, shaped like a solid Gothic window, 10 to 15 feet high, with a square hole at the bottom. Two rows of stones run out from each side of this head-stone.
Pula, formerly Nora, on the Gulf of Cagliari, is the oldest settlement. Sardinia appears to have been colonised by the Phoenicians and Carthaginians. Who were the aborigines is doubtful. It came under the Romans, B.C. 175, at the end of the second Punic war; and had as many as forty- two towns, being always rich in mines (400 it is said) and timber.
It was, in fact, the great mining country of the Romans, and is reputed to have had at one time as many as five million inhabitants, which seems incredible. Roman ploughs and carriage wheels of solid blocks of wood are still seen.
It was conquered by the Pisans, 1025, who took it from the Saracens. It came to Spain in 1481; and finally, was taken in exchange for Sicily, by Victor Amadeus, Duke of Savoy, who thereupon assumed the title of King of Sardinia, a title which has swelled into the more imposing one of King of Italy. As might be expected from such a history, the language of the island is a mixture of Latin, Italian, and Spanish, with a dash of Arabic.
The stations are:
PORTO TORRES TO – in miles
San Giovanni 8
San Giorgio 9
Sant’Orsola 10
Sassari 12
Caniga 15
Tissi – Usini 17
Scala di Giocca 21
Campomela 23
Ploaghe 29
Ardara 35
Chilivani 41
[Branch to Golfo degli Aranci,
via Oschiri 14
Monti 30,
Enas 34,
Olbia [Terranova] 44,
Golfo d’Aranci, 57.]
Mores 45
Torralba 55
Giave 58
Bonorva 63
Campeda 73
Macomer 78
Birori 85
Borore 87
Abbasanta 93
Paulilatino 97
Bauladu 104
Solarussa 110
Simaxis 112
Oristano 116
Marrubiu 128
Uras 132
Pabillonis 138
San Gavino 143
Sanluri 147
Samassi 151
Serramanna 155
Villasor 168
Decimomannu 164
[Branch to Iglesias,
via Uta, 2,
Siliqua 8,
Musei 14,
Iglesias 24]
Assemini 167
Elmas 170
Cagliari 175
[1872: – The diligence, starting from Sassari, runs along it in about 30 hours. It corresponds with the old Roman road through the Island; and the telegraph which follows it is in connection with the cables at each end.
Of the projected Railway which takes the same direction, one-half is open from Qristano to Cagliari (48 miles), with the following stations
[il numero indica le miglia]:
Marrubiu 18
Uras 26
Pabillonis 36
San Gavino 44
Sanluri 50
Samassi 57
Serramanna 64
Villasor 69
Decimomannu 73
Assemini 81
Elmas 86
Cagliari 94
ROUTE 44.
Porto Torres to Cagliari
The distances are as follows:- Miles
Sassari 10
Codrongianus 12
Torralba 8
Bonorva 9
Macomer 8
Paulilatino 16
Oristano 20
ROUTE 47 PORTO TORRES – CAGLIARI
[PORTO TORRES – SASSARI – ALGHERO]
PORTO TORRES (Stat.), at the northern extremity of the Strada Reale, one of the half dozen harbours of Sardinia. Population, 2,142 (including the Island of Asinara).
Steamers to Genoa, Ajaccio, & c. (See Bradshaw’s Continental Guide.)
[1872: Omnibuses to Sassari, 2 francs].
This is an unhealthy place in the hot season. It stands near the ancient Turris Libysonis, at the mouth of the River Turritano, and was ruined by the Genoese, out of jealousy of the Pisans, 1166; when its inhabitants retired inland and founded Sassari, which it now serves as a port. [?]
It lies at the bottom of the fine Bay of Asinara. A large square tower, built 1549, defends the harbour.
The town is a long street, in which stands the Cathedral of S. Gavino, founded in the eleventh century. It contains some pillars from the ruins of the Roman city, which are close by; with two marble sarcophagi worth notice.
Cattle, oil, and wine are the chief exports. [In the 1872 edn. not “cattle”].
The Gulf of Asinara is 15 miles by 20; bounded by Asinara Island on the west, lying off Cape Falcone. This island is the ancient Herculis Insula, a long mountainous ridge rising 1,500 feet high, at Monte Scomunica.
It contains a few inhabitants and some ruins. To the west of Porta Torres are the Nurra Mountains, which, at Monte Argentaro, are 2,010 feet high; and to the east is Castel Sardo, a fortified place (population, 1,944), remarkable for its lava cliffs, 300 to 400 feet high. From Porto Torres by rail to
SASSARI (Stat.), the second city, and the liveliest place in the island, in a rich plain. An archbishop’s seat. Population, 37,000. [1872: Population, 23.672].
Inn: Albergo d’Italia.
Resident English Vice-Consul. [It is not in the 1872 edn.]
It has a good trade in olives, figs, tobacco, wine, fruit, & c., through the ports of Porto Torres and Alghero. Upon its foundation by the people of the former place, in 1166, it became a republic under the protection of Genoa, styling her “mater et magistra, sed non domina.”
It is encircled with promenades, and has a citadel, a Municipalità, a chief street, called Turritani, a large Cathedral of the seventeenth century, and twenty churches.
[1872: – «It is walled in with turrets and battlements, and has a citadel, a chief street, called Turritani, a large cathedral of the 17th century, and 20 churches». Note of Gallura Tour: The towers were in fact demolished in the time between the two editions.]
In the Cathedral and the Church of Santa Trinità are pictures of 15th and 16th century.
Statue of Azuni, in the Piazza.
In 1840 there were 700 persons of the clerical profession here.
[1872: St. Pietro is a large and rich convent].
Museum, with good collection of terra-cottas, & c.
The University, at the Jesuits College, was founded, 1634, by Philip IV.; and contains a museum with a few antiquities.
Outside the Marcello Gate is the fine Fountain of Rosello, of white marble; the water pouring from eight lions, and four other figures representing the seasons.
Near the town, the road crosses a river by a genuine Roman bridge, resting on several arches with massive piers.
About 3 miles off is a nuraghe, a rough stone building, shaped like a truncated cone. It has a small door at the bottom, leading to a chamber, 25 feet high, and 15 feet diameter, with three cells in it. Many of them are to be seen near the road. They resemble the talayots, or Giant’s Barrows of Minorca; and are supposed to be of pre-Phoenician origin, intended as refuges in case of attack. [1872 edn.: intended as tombs for the dead. –Forester]. They are found all over the island.
There is a short narrow-gauge line to
ALGHERO, one of the ports of the island, 14 miles from Sassari, under Monte Leone. Population, 9,806.
It was founded, 1355, by the Aragonese kings; and the people, who are of Spanish descent, speak a dialect of Catalan. It has a good cathedral and thirteen churches. Oranges, olives, corn, & c., are raised and exported, with red and white wine, and coral. About 10 miles west, near Cape Caccia, is the Antro di Nettuno, or Grotto of Neptune, remarkable for its stalactites. The cliffs at Cape Caccia are 500 feet high.
[FROM SASSARI TO MACOMER]
From Sassari, the rail proceeds nearly in the direction of the Strada Reale to the stations at Caniga and Tissi – Usini, on to [1872 edn.: From Sassari, a diligence runs daily to Cagliari, along the Strada Reale].
Scala di Giocca (Stat.), or Giant’s Stairs, so called from a zigzag road over the hills, among cliffs 600 feet high. Hence to
Campomela (Stat.), on a plain; and
Ploaghe (Stat.), population, 2,870, on a volcanic peak.
About eight miles south west of this is
Codrongianus (population, 1,064), on a volcanic plain, near a mineral spring.
From Ploaghe there is a road to TORRALBA (population 1,120).
We follow the rail to
Ardara (Stat.), on the volcanic hillock in the plain, now reduced to a few hovels (population, 277) by malaria; but formerly the capital of the province of Logudoro. It was founded in the eleventh century, and has a fine Church and re- mains of old towers and ruined walls.
Chilivani (Stat.), where the branch to Ozieri, Olbia [first called Terranova], and Golfo Aranci goes off. [Chilivani is not present in the 1872 edition. The important railway yard had not yet been built].
OZIERI (Stat.), on an eminence, where the plain in which it stands narrows towards the hills.
Population, 7,183. This is a clean town, having fountains in the piazza, a large heavy-looking cathedral, and nine churches, one of which, Nostra Senora di Monserrato, stands on a hill.
From the Capuchin Convent is a fine prospect of the surrounding Campidano.
Snipe shooting.
Hence by road to Mores (population, 2,219), on a hill, near the border of the Ozieri plain, with the round top of Monte Santo, on the left, 2,000 feet high.
Olbia [first called Terranova] (Stat.), 41 miles from Ozieri, on the east coast (population, 2,005), is a miserable, unhealthy place, at the head of a fine harbour or gulf.
From Olbia the line is completed to Golfo Aranci (13 miles farther) where the steamers call.
The rail towards Oristano passes on to Giave (Stat.) and Bonorva (Stat.), population, 4,883; leaving the Strada Reale to the west, till it approaches the latter near Macomer and Paulilatino.
Macomer (Stat.) Population, 2,210. Between this and
Paulilatino (Stat) are to be seen many of the nuraghi or ancient towers already spoken of.
[FROM MACOMER TO BOSA AND NUORO]
A line passes through Macomer from Bosa on the west coast to Nuoro.
Bosa (Stat.) is a poor little port on the west coast, for shipping the oak timber from the Marglione and Goceano ranges, of which there is great plenty; yet Sardinia is said to buy navy timber from the French. Each cork tree yields about 301b. of bark on the average.
To the south of it are Tresnuraghes (population, 1,519); and the town of Cuglieri (population, 4.199), in a crater, near Monte Articu or Ferru, 2,716 feet high.
Iron is found here.
Nuoro (Stat.). population, 6,300, diligence to Orosei on the east coast, is a poor place, on a high plain.
It was the old capital of the Barbagia highlands, the people of which are very independent, and addicted to the vendetta, or law of private revenge.
Monte Oliena, in this quarter, is 4,390 feet high, and the Gennargentu range to the south rises to the height of 6,300 feet at the culminating peak of the island.
[FROM MACOMER TO ORISTANO]
ORISTANO (Stat.), population, 6,220, on the rail to Cagliari. An archbishop’s seat, and an old half-Spanish, unhealthy town. Hence the proverb: “A Oristano che ghe va In Oristano ghe resta”. It stands near the mouth of the Tirso and the Gulf of Oristano.
Its Cathedral has an eight-sided campanile, topped with a pear-shaped dome of coloured tiles. It produces good white and red wine and flax.
The palm and cactus are seen.
There are many interesting antiquities in the neighbourhood.
The mail steamer touches here.
[1872: – The orange groves of Milfs above-mentioned are a few miles distant.
– British Vice-Consul, G. Cordo, Esq.]
[FROM ORISTANO TO CAGLIARI]
From Oristano to Cagliari the road and rail pass through the widest campidano in the island, 50 miles long.
Uras (Stat.), under the volcanic peak of Monte Arci. Population, 2,053. To the west, 12 miles, at the bottom of the Gulf of Oristano, is Monte Arcuentu, composed of piles of basalt. Its summit, Trebia Ladu, 2,316 feet high, is a basalt peak, so called from a tribina, or tripod.
At Ales (population, 1,128), to the north-east, is a giara di Gesturi, or volcanic plain, strewn with pieces of obsidian trachyte. & c.
Sanluri (Stat.), having some old churches and a castle, and houses built of sundried bricks.
Samassi (Stat.), population, 2,300, on the River Samassi, which runs down to
Villasor (Stat.). Near this is Monastir (population, 1,246), standing on a double crater, long extinct, and now well woodEdn. The bridge is of red trap rock.
Decimomannu (Stat.) Here a branch of 19 miles strikes off to the west coast, past
Siliqua (Stat.), population, 1,945, and Iglesias (Stat.), population, 5,450, in the Sulci district, where the best Sardinian is spoken.
The Strada Reale and the rail both terminate at
CAGLIARI (Stat.)
The capital of the island, on its southern face; standing on a fine bay, 24 miles by 12 miles, with good anchorage. Its Darsena, or port, admits large vessels alongside the quay.
Population, 39,000, with suburbs.
Hotels. Concordia, with Café of the same name; Progresso.
Resident British and American Consuls.
Among the curiosities here are gloves made of the beard of the pinnus marina.
A good show of fruit, & c., in the market, in Stampace suburb.
Cagliari produces Malvasia and Muscat wine.
It is very cold before sunrise and after sunset, and would be trying for an invalid.
It was the ancient Calaris, founded by the Phoenicians; and consists of an Upper and Lower town. The Upper Town, or oldest part, on a hill, 400 feet high, is called Castello or Casteddu, and contains the chief buildings, the citadel, & c. It was walled round by the Pisans; and three massive Towers surmount the old ramparts, called the Elephant, Lion, and Eagle towers, with as many arched gates, which lead, by steps and steep lanes, down the slope of the hill to the suburbs of the Lower Town beneath, viz.: Marina, or the port, Stampace, or Corso, Theatre, and Villanova.
Cagliari was the residence of the King of Sardinia, from 1798 to 1814, when expelled from the mainland by the French. It has fifty-two churches.
The Cathedral was built by the Pisans, out of the stones of a basilica founded by Constantine, completed in 1312, but afterwards modernisEdn. It has three aisles, with marbles, pictures, tombs, & c., and a crypt containing relics.
St. Augustine’s Church is annexed to an Oratory, built by him when he resided here for a short time. Upon his death, at Hippo, in Africa, his bones were translated hither, 505, and afterwards removed to Pavia, by King Luitprand, 722.
The Jesuit Church is rich in marbles, & c.; its College has been suppressEdn. Near the Capuchin Convent are remains of a Roman Amphitheatre, about 290 feet long, with traces of water-works.
Other buildings are the Reale Udienza, or High Court of Justice; the government salt, tobacco, and powder works; and the University. At the latter is the
Royal Museum, containing many objects of notice. Among these are Roman milestones and sarcophagi.
Roman coins; one being unique, viz., a silver coins truck by [Marcus] Atius Balbus, the grandfather of Augustus, when prefect of Sardinia, in the year B.C. 80. About one hundred Carthaginian coins, marked by a head of Ceres, and a horse, or palm tree; and a few Saracenic coins. Egyptian, Roman, and other ancient terra cotta vases.
Phoenician antiquities; including a sand-stone block, and an inscription from Nora, the first town built in the island; said to record the arrival of “Sardus Pater,” from Tarshish in Libya.
A rare collection of 180 Sarde idols, or bronzes of Phoenician divinities, grotesque and ugly, 4 to 17 inches high. Some doubt is felt as to the authenticity of these. [This line does not appear in the 1872 edition].
Specimens of island minerals and birds; among the latter are flamingoes and pelicans from the salt lagoon at Scaffa, near Cagliari. They frequent this piece of water at the fall of the year. [In the 1872 edition continues: – It is six miles by three miles, and yields mullet, eels, and other fish].
Good wild-fowl shooting in the Stagno, on the west side.. The River Uta and other streams run into it.
[EXCURSIONS FROM CAGLIARI]
At Dorgali, near Cagliari [sic!, but no in edn. 1872!], is a stalactitic cave, with an immense hall, supported by 16 lofty pillars, and filed with the most remarkable stalactitic incrustations, and six smaller chambers. The petrified skeleton of a large stag and the print of a human foot were found.
[In edn. 1872 also included: – From Cagliari the telegraph is continued by a cable to Bona, in Africa, and by another to Malta, 375 miles; thence to Corfu, 420 miles].
Steamers to Leghorn, Genoa, touching every two or three weeks at Olbia or Tortolì. (See Bradshaw’s Continental Guide.)
Cagliari to Sorgono, via Isili and Aritzo, by a narrow-gauge railway, for the Gennargentu Mountains. From Aritzo, pleasant excursions can be made, and there is a carriage road from Sorgono to Nuoro.
From Cagliari there is a route to the west coast, past
Siliqua (Stat.) and Domusnovas (population, 1,666),
to Iglesias (Stat.), which are best reached by way of the branch rail from Decimomannu (as above). Near this, at Domusnovas, is the natural Tunnel of San Giovanni, 900 yards long, leading to the Mines and hills. To the south-west lies Monte d’Oru, so called from the gold found there. The islands of S. Antioco and S. Pietro, in the Gulf of Palmas, 20 to 25 miles, are to the south of Iglesias.
From Cagliari it is about 25 miles along the east side of the gulf, past Quartu (population, 6,209), to Cape Carbonaro, at the end of the Sette Fratelli Mountains, 2,310 feet high.
Here, as at many other remote parts, the costumes are remarkable.
From Cagliari down the west side of the gulf it is 30 miles to Cape Spartivento, the southern extremity of the island, marked by an iron-bound coast, 1,000 feet high, to the Nuraghe, or Giant’s Tower, on the top.
At the back is the Mount Linas group, 3,000 to 4,000 feet above sea level. The road passes Pula (population, 1,486), near Nura, or Nora, the oldest settlement in the island, among olives and orchards.
From Cape Spartivento it is 15 miles to the bold cliffs of Cape Teulada, 900 feet high, and to the Gulf of Palmas, at the south-west corner.
Here are the Islands of S. Pietro and S. Antioco, both of trachyte rock, with abrupt cliffs. The little island peak of Toro is 600 feet high.
The road is carried round the gulf to Iglesias.
ROUTE 48
FROM LA MADDALENA TO SASSARI
LA MADDALENA, the ancient Ilva, 11 miles round, is the largest of the islands, in the Straits of Bonifacio.
The little town on the south side of the island was founded by refugees from Corsica, 1767, and goes straggling up a hill, among hedges of prickly pear. It has a good harbour, and deep water at the quays, and an increasing trade with Leghorn and Marseilles. Some English residents are settled here.
Garibaldi’s Island lies to the eastward.
Population, 1,712.
Hotel: Santa’s.
[1872: British Vice-Consul, G. Gambarella, Esq.].
Steamer, weekly, from Leghorn.
The Church of Santa Maria Maddalena is of granite and marble, and possesses a Nelson relic in its silver candlesticks and crucifix, bearing an inscription and his arms- “Nelson and Bronte.” They were presented by him to the town when he made the harbour his rendezvous, while watching the French fleet at Toulon, in 1804-5. He told the people to pray to the Madonna for the French to come out, and he would give them the value of a frigate to build a new church. The anchorage of Mezzo Schifo here was called by Nelson “Agincourt Sound.” His opinion was that the harbour was the finest in the world-easy to get in and out of in all winds, and, for position, worth fifty Maltas.
The name of Napoleon, also, is connected with this place. He was sent here by Paoli, in February, 1793, second in command of a small force of artil- lery, to capture it; but was obliged to retreat with a loss of 200 men and his artillery. He fired at the church with shells, which would not burst, because through the roguery of the contractors they were filled with sand instead of powder. One of them is mounted here as a memorial.
The women wear black silk dresses and a muslin mantle over the shoulder. They still use hand-mills to grind the corn.
To the east of Maddalena is Caprera, the home of Garibaldi; a rugged mass, so called from the wild goats which abound here. It belonged to an English sportsman before it came to him, and contains his small simple house, with a little farm of 20 acres on the west side, the rest being barren rock. His yacht was a present from some English friends.
Tejalone Hill was 750 to 880 feet high.
To the south of Caprera is the Gulf of Arzachena, having at the east end an anchorage, the entrance to which is called Capo d’Orso, from a lump of granite like a bear on its hind legs.
Near it, on a wooded hill, is the Church of Santa Maria di Arzachena.
At the opposite or west end of the anchorage is Point Longo Sardo, or Longone [Santa Teresa Gallura], at the north extremity of the Island of Sardinia, on a bold coast. Here, and at Cape Santa Reparata, are quarries of fine red granite, once worked by the Romans for stone for the Pantheon; and by the Pisans, for their Duomo and Baptistery.
The strait, or Bocche di Bonifacio, which is from 6 to 8 miles broad, to the opposite shore of Corsica (see Bradshaw’s Hand – Book to France), was called Taphros (a trench) by the Greeks, and is subject to heavy squalls. Coral and tunny fish are procured here.
From La Maddalena to the mouth of the Liscia on the mainland, about 2 miles, is done by boat. Hence to SASSARI (supposing the rail from Tempio to Monti. thence via Chilivani, not to be used), may be travelled on horseback, the distances being about as follow:
To Tempio, 25 miles;
top of the Limbara, 12 miles;
Nulvi, 12 miles;
Osilo, 12 miles;
Sassari, 8 miles;
total, about 70 miles.
The track lies through a wide plain, bordered by hills, in the province of Gallura, which is a series of hill and valley, with no cultivation, and no inhabitants, except at some stazzi, or farms, the few villages being on the coast. It is covered with a luxuriant shrubbery, called macchia, as in Corsica, composed of myrtles, some 30 feet high; with cistus, erica, arbutus, and other plants.
The Village of Luogosanto, in the hills, about half way to Tempio, is near Monte Santo, a place of pilgrimage, with a ruined convent, founded thirteenth century, where the relics of S. Nicholas and S. Trano are shown.
In this neighbourhood is the forest of the Cinque Denti, (or Five Teeth Hills), overgrown with millions of trees and shrubs, as oak, ilex, cork, arbutus, & c., so thick that the sun never penetrates them; and a great resort of fuoriusciti, or outlaws, who are civil and hospitable to strangers. The route ascends to
TEMPIO, the capital of Gallura, through the eastern defiles of the Limbara Mountains, which rise 3,990 feet at Punta Balistreri. Population, 9.547.
The best guns in the island are made here.
It is the military head-quarters of the district, and a bishop’s seat, on a swell of the Gemini plain, 2,000 feet above the sea, and therefore healthy.
It has some narrow, dirty streets, with large granite houses marked by wooden balconies; several old Palaces faced by the marble arms of their former owners; a Cathedral and thirteen churches, a large suppressed nunnery, and a reformatory outside the town.
The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, is of a mixed style, with a good altar, choir, and stalls. There is a casino in the town supplied with newspapers and books.
The men are shepherds, cavallanti (horse keepers), viandanti (gaides), & c., and carry on a trade in cheese, ham, fruit, and other produce. They are also eager cacciatori or sports-men, fond of hunting the cinghiale (wild hogs), wild deer, and goat.
The hogs come to feed on the asphodels, which have a flower like a dahlia.
It is the custom here for the women to wear the upper petticoat of striped silk turned over the head. From the town there is a fine panoramic view of the mountains, dotted with groups of pines, cork. and ilex.
Leaving Tempio the route ascends through the plain to the top of the pass of the Limbara, by a long but easy rise. The view from the summit takes in Corsica, 80 miles distant one way, and the Campidano, in the centre of the island, the other way.
On the north-west, down the River Coghinas, are some hot springs, near Castel Doria, which stands on a rocky peak.
The route passes NULVI (population, 2,804), and Osilo (population, 4,738) to Sassari, in Route 44.
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